Valentino SS27 Collection Unveiled at Paris Library

Alessandro Michele's Spring/Summer 2027 collection for Valentino, titled "Antilibrary," was presented at the historic Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève in Paris. The collection's concept, as articulated by Michele in the show notes, draws inspiration from Umberto Eco's notion of an antilibrary—a collection of unread books—to frame garments as imaginative relics that exist beyond conventional commercial utility and consumption logic. Michele stated that garments are designed for varied destinies, with some appearing only briefly on the runway, others preserved in imagery, and a select few becoming cherished wardrobe pieces akin to relics. He described the collection as a "joyful reservoir of forms, aesthetic sensibilities, silhouettes, and ways of inhabiting the body," aiming to transcend the typical cycles of functionality and consumption. The runway presentation began with womenswear, establishing a maximalist aesthetic characterized by opulent materials and vibrant colors. Looks featured floral lace, satins, and ruched and plissé fabrics in shades of pink, lilac, magenta, gold, and green. Embellishments such as fringe and feather trims amplified the collection's glamorous and maximalist inclinations, aligning with Michele's signature style. Following the womenswear segment, the menswear offerings introduced a more relaxed and unconventional approach. Early menswear looks included a black "Villain Teen" cap paired with a tan leather trench coat, light green pajama pants, and color-blocked sandals. Another notable ensemble featured a hot pink "Villain Teen" cap, a brown sequined cardigan, and loose-fit light-wash denim that revealed plaid boxers at the waist. The use of plaid patterns extended to classic shirting, often styled with shirts tucked into bottoms, and the prominent display of boxers continued throughout the menswear presentations, suggesting a deliberate subversion of traditional tailoring and presentation norms. The collection's setting within the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, a renowned Parisian library, further underscored the theme of intellectualism and the curated, perhaps even unaccessed, nature of creative output. This juxtaposition of high fashion with an environment dedicated to knowledge and literature aimed to imbue the garments with a sense of enduring value and conceptual depth, moving them away from ephemeral trends towards a more lasting, almost archival, status.