Schiaparelli FW27 Haute Couture Embraces Unknown Materials

Schiaparelli officially unveiled its Fall/Winter 2027 Haute Couture collection, titled "THE CALL OF THE VOID" (l'appel du vide), on an unspecified date this season. Creative Director Daniel Roseberry moved away from traditional "noble" textiles, constructing the collection using unorthodox materials such as latex, silicone, and sheets of baked paint. This approach represents a deliberate departure from the previous season's success, "The Agony and the Ecstasy," which drew inspiration from Gaudí architecture. Roseberry described this shift as a "total surrender" to the unknown, aiming to challenge the conventional definitions of haute couture.

The collection subverted legendary house staples and recontextualized iconic Schiaparelli designs. The heavily embroidered Schiaparelli jacket, typically a focal point, was treated solely as a styling accessory. New surrealist footwear silhouettes were introduced, including a design named "The Bubble." The ateliers experimented with synthetic fabrications not commonly seen on couture runways, with silhouettes sculpted from baked paint and a hyper-realistic bustier cast in silicone and painted a milky blue. Roseberry stated in the show notes that "Formulas are antithetical to the magic of creation, which can be found only in total surrender to the unknown."

This collection marks a significant pivot for Schiaparelli, emphasizing innovation and a willingness to explore unconventional materials and design approaches. The use of latex and silicone, alongside baked paint, signifies a departure from the brand's historical reliance on luxurious natural fibers. The reinterpretation of the signature jacket further underscores the theme of subverting established codes and embracing a more experimental aesthetic. The collection's title, "THE CALL OF THE VOID," directly reflects this embrace of the unpredictable and the uncharted territory in fashion design.