Anthony Vaccarello Departs Saint Laurent After a Decade, Leaving a Legacy of High-Glamour and Financial Growth

Anthony Vaccarello has officially concluded his ten-year tenure as Creative Director at the esteemed French luxury house, Saint Laurent. His final collection, a dramatic September runway presentation in Paris, marked the culmination of his influential period at the helm. Vaccarello, a Belgian designer, assumed creative leadership in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane, another designer known for his transformative impact on the brand. Upon his arrival, Vaccarello swiftly established a potent and recognizable visual identity for Saint Laurent. This aesthetic was deeply rooted in high-octane glamour, characterized by sharp, impeccably tailored silhouettes and a decidedly sensual approach to eveningwear. His runway shows often utilized the iconic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, amplifying the brand's Parisian heritage and its association with sophisticated luxury.

During Vaccarello's decade-long stewardship, Saint Laurent experienced a remarkable period of financial expansion. The brand's annual revenues saw a near tripling, reaching a significant peak of €3.3 billion EUR. This substantial growth was not solely attributable to high-fashion runway pieces; it was significantly driven by the commercial success of more accessible, yet equally luxurious, everyday items. These included popular leather goods, sharply designed footwear, and statement outerwear, which resonated strongly with a global clientele. Vaccarello's vision extended beyond the traditional fashion calendar. In 2023, he spearheaded the launch of Saint Laurent Productions, a strategic move to broaden the brand's cultural footprint. This initiative saw the house backing critically acclaimed films by renowned directors such as Pedro Almodóvar and David Cronenberg, further cementing Saint Laurent's association with artistic and cultural influence.

Luca de Meo, the CEO of Kering, Saint Laurent's parent company, acknowledged Vaccarello's significant contributions. He expressed "sincere gratitude" for the designer's impact, highlighting how Vaccarello's "creative vision and exacting standards" were instrumental in "strengthening the enduring influence of one of France's greatest couture houses." De Meo emphasized that the brand is now poised to embark on a "new chapter in its history."

Vaccarello's departure coincides with a period of broader strategic recalibration within Kering, which is currently under the leadership of its new Chief Executive. Saint Laurent's own CEO, Cédric Charbit, is also actively involved in navigating this transition. The brand's future strategic direction aims to solidify its market position by reinforcing its offerings in daywear, menswear, and high-end leather goods, seeking to assert its authority and appeal across a wider spectrum of luxury consumption, beyond its established strength in eveningwear. Kering has indicated that new creative leadership for Saint Laurent will be announced in the near future.