Sustainable fashion isn’t a standalone category

The author argues that sustainable fashion should not be treated as a separate category, as this approach hinders its potential for widespread adoption and economic viability. Many brands founded on sustainability principles, such as Veja, Reformation, and Everlane, have achieved revenues exceeding $200 million but have struggled to scale significantly. In contrast, mainstream fashion giants like Nike, Zara, and Gap, which prioritize sales growth and profit margins, operate at a scale more than 100 times larger. Patagonia is cited as an exception, reaching over $1 billion in revenue, but this growth took 50 years. The author, who has experience launching mission-driven brands like For Days and Maiyet, and was involved with Product (RED) at Gap Inc., suggests that the lack of breakout scale for sustainable brands stems from fundamental issues in design, quality, and price point not working in concert. Examples like Allbirds' recent financial difficulties and Everlane's sale to Shein are attributed to product weakness and outdated brand experiences, respectively. The author emphasizes that while these innovative brands have made meaningful contributions and found dedicated customer bases, their inability to achieve mainstream scale necessitates a reframing of the approach to sustainable fashion.