H&M, Inditex, Adidas Back Extended Producer Responsibility Coalition

Global fashion giants H&M, Inditex, and Bestseller, along with sportswear leader Adidas, have officially backed The Or Foundation's new coalition advocating for extended producer responsibility (EPR) fees to be applied to used clothing.

This significant endorsement marks a pivotal moment for The Or Foundation's five-year campaign to shift the financial burden of textile waste management towards the brands that produce the garments. The coalition aims to test the theory that EPR fees, which are designed to hold producers accountable for the end-of-life management of their products, should follow the flow of used clothing, particularly in regions that receive vast quantities of secondhand textiles.

The Or Foundation, a non-profit organization focused on addressing the global waste crisis in the fashion industry, has been a vocal proponent of EPR schemes. These schemes typically involve brands paying fees based on the volume of products they place on the market, with these funds then used for collection, sorting, recycling, and disposal. The foundation's specific focus is on ensuring these fees are equitably distributed and effectively implemented, especially in countries that disproportionately bear the brunt of textile waste from wealthier nations.

By joining this coalition, H&M, Inditex (owner of Zara, Pull&Bear, and Massimo Dutti), Bestseller (owner of Jack & Jones and Vero Moda), and Adidas are signaling a willingness to engage with and potentially implement EPR frameworks. This move comes at a time when regulatory pressure on the fashion industry regarding sustainability and waste is mounting globally. Several countries and regions, including the European Union, are actively developing or have already implemented EPR regulations for textiles.

The coalition's strategy involves not only advocating for policy changes but also piloting practical solutions. The involvement of these major retailers suggests a potential shift in industry practices, moving beyond voluntary commitments to more systemic approaches to managing textile waste. The Or Foundation has emphasized that EPR is a critical tool for driving circularity in fashion, encouraging brands to design for durability, repairability, and recyclability, and to invest in infrastructure for managing post-consumer textiles. The success of this coalition could set a precedent for how the global fashion industry addresses its environmental footprint.