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The Guardian Culture3 min read

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Rory MacLean's 'Geography of Heaven': A Grief-Stricken Travelogue Through Sacred Sites

Rory MacLean's 'Geography of Heaven': A Grief-Stricken Travelogue Through Sacred Sites

Travel writer Rory MacLean's latest work, "Geography of Heaven," is a deeply personal and expansive exploration of grief and the search for meaning in the five years following the untimely death of his wife, Katrin, from cancer. This book masterfully intertwines memoir with travelogue, chronicling MacLean's extensive journeys to a dozen sacred and spiritually significant locations across the globe. MacLean, whose previous work as a travel writer has seen him undertake extraordinary adventures such as flying a handbuilt plane over Crete and riding shotgun with a drug warlord in Burma, approaches his profound personal loss with a unique blend of open-mindedness and a sometimes curmudgeonly wit, drawing a comparison to the observational style of Michael Palin. He poignantly describes Katrin, his wife of 32 years, as the "fixed point" in his life, tenderly recounting her final weeks and moments with palpable emotion.

Unable to fully process the immense grief of Katrin's passing, MacLean turns to the concept of "thin places"—known in Celtic mythology as *áiteanna tanaí*—locations where the veil between the earthly and spiritual realms is believed to be exceptionally permeable. His quest for solace and understanding begins in Jerusalem, a city steeped in religious history, and then leads him to a diverse array of sites. These include an ashram in India, offering a deep dive into Eastern spiritual practices; a Native American community in South Dakota, connecting with indigenous wisdom; an "excruciating" Vipassanā retreat in Suffolk, pushing the boundaries of meditative discipline; and, perhaps inevitably for a spiritual seeker, an ayahuasca ceremony in Peru, a potent psychedelic experience often used for shamanic healing and spiritual insight.

Throughout his travels, MacLean exhibits an affinity for new-age philosophies and a penchant for grand, often aphoristic pronouncements, such as "none of us are created for naught" and "love can but lead to truth." These are interspersed with striking, memorable one-liners, like "I watched gods walk on fire," which encapsulate the awe-inspiring and sometimes surreal nature of his experiences. "Geography of Heaven" stands as MacLean's first published work since his wife's death, marking a significant personal and literary milestone. It is a testament to his enduring spirit and his courageous, soul-searching journey through the profound landscape of loss, in pursuit of answers about existence and the nature of the afterlife.

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