Startup Wtrlss Uses Digital Dyeing to Cut Denim Water Use

The traditional dyeing process for denim, responsible for the iconic blue color, consumes significant resources, with a single pair of jeans typically requiring 20 gallons of water and industrial chemicals. Addressing this environmental challenge, a startup named Wtrlss has introduced a novel digital printing approach that re-creates the classic denim aesthetic using approximately two tablespoons of water and bio-based dyes. Wtrlss is currently initiating collaborations with major apparel brands to implement its innovative technology. The company has developed a patented biochemistry dye that is applied directly to fabric rolls via industrial-scale inkjet printers. While digital printing on fabric is not a new concept, existing methods typically involve surface application. Wtrlss's technology, however, achieves full bonding of the dye to the fiber without requiring additional post-application treatments. According to the startup, this results in a fabric that is visually indistinguishable from denim dyed through conventional methods. Dustin White, CEO of Wtrlss, stated that the company has engineered the first indigo replacement color set compatible with digital deployment, marking a significant advancement as it enables the application of indigo blue without using indigo itself. The foundational technology was developed by Wtrlss co-founder Mickaël Mheidle, a scientist based in Switzerland. The conventional method for dyeing denim involves a multi-stage process. Cotton yarns are immersed in dye baths where indigo, or more commonly synthetic indigo, undergoes chemical modifications to facilitate its adhesion to the fibers. Subsequently, a portion of the color is often removed. White elaborated that this stage involves the use of bleaches, lasers, and various other techniques to achieve the desired washed-down appearance commonly found in retail products. The final fabric is typically made by weaving blue yarns with white yarns and often undergoes further finishing processes. In contrast, the Wtrlss digital process is completed in a single step. Instead of starting with dyed fabric and then removing color, the color and finish are applied directly to undyed fabric. The proprietary biochemistry is engineered to promote color penetration into the fiber and can be adjusted to achieve specific visual outcomes. White further explained that designers have control over the depth of color penetration into the fabric.