Daniel Roth Revives Vintage Gilt Dial Technique

Daniel Roth has introduced the Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt, a new addition to its dress-watch collection, which revives a rare 1940s dial-making technique known as gilt.

This revived technique involves a masking process that reveals solid gold numerals and hand-guilloché pinstripes beneath a deep black dial surface. The guilloché patterns are meticulously crafted on a traditional rose engine, a mechanical device used for creating precise linear patterns, ensuring a dimensional and reflective quality that industrial methods cannot replicate. The gilt process creates a layered effect where gold elements are situated beneath a glossy black finish, interacting with light to produce a subtle three-dimensional impression. The watch is housed in Daniel Roth's signature 5N rose gold double-ellipse case, measuring 38.6mm in width and 35.5mm in height, with a slender thickness of 7.7mm. This precious metal case complements the deep black dial and is paired with a black calfskin leather strap, creating a balanced aesthetic of warmth, depth, and understated elegance.

The timepiece is powered by the in-house Calibre DR002, a manual-winding movement developed and assembled under the guidance of master watchmakers Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. This movement measures 3.1mm in thickness and consists of 143 components, including 21 jewels. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (vph) and provides a power reserve of 65 hours. The movement's architecture is hand-finished, featuring hand-beveled edges, Côtes de Genève (Geneva stripes), and a bar-click winding system designed for a tactile user experience. The DR002 movement is visible through a sapphire exhibition caseback, allowing enthusiasts to appreciate its intricate craftsmanship.

The revival of this vintage gilt dial technique signifies a commitment to preserving and reinterpreting historical watchmaking artistry. Daniel Roth, an independent watchmaker with a legacy of independent craftsmanship, has expanded its core line with this new model, emphasizing artisanal precision and the purity of time display. The Extra Plat Rose Gold Gilt is priced at 55,500 Swiss Francs (CHF), which is approximately $68,641 USD, reflecting the high level of craftsmanship and precious materials used in its construction. The watch's reinterpretation of a rare 1940s technique highlights the brand's dedication to horological heritage and innovation.